Dettifoss

Tuesday September 27
Leaving Myvatn, we headed to the mighty Dettifoss, spotting its plume of spray across the lava field. The volume of water plunging over its edge (193 cu meter/sec), makes it the largest waterfall in Europe. A storm in itself, with thunder and rain, Dettifoss was magical when the rainbows appeared.

Travelling to Höfn on the southeast coast, we passed through the amazing mountains and valleys of the east. It was a booklet of postcards complete with mountain shelter.

We stopped so many times for pictures that it was almost sunset when we reached the Viking Cafe, whose proprietor charged for access to Stokksnes, a black sand beach rimmed in golden hued sea oats - the first I have seen here. The beach was strewn with mussel shells and the mountains illuminated by the sunset.

Höfn, renown for their local langoustine, was a few miles further and the perfect place to eat dinner. For starters, we had the langoustine in a light tempura with a delicious chili mayonnaise and for our main course, grilled langoustine. The small lobsters were sweet, tender and delicious and there are no pictures - we were too hungry!

Hikes and Hot Springs

Monday Sept 26
With a little sun and a crisp, cold day, we headed to the Krafla volcanic area to hike Leirhnjúkur mountain. Hiking through lava fields, by steaming springs and mud pots, we used boardwalks to cross some of the most unstable ground, the sulfurous smoke billowing around us. We warmed our hands over steaming vents, marveled at the swirling patterns of lava, and were fascinated by the different colors of rock, with glistening smooth surfaces created by rapid heating and cooling. Some vents and formations were encrusted with minerals and felt like saunas. Bracing ourselves against the wind, we were treated at the top to a commanding view of the vast surrounding lava field created by the Krafla volcanic fires of 1975-1984.

The Myvatn fires of 1725-1729 created the Stóra Viti crater nearby. Climbing up to the edge of the crater, we were surprised by the bright blue green water at the bottom of the crater, reminiscent of Lake Louise. We walked the entire rim of the crater - broken at the back by another active area of mud pots and boiling pools.

Ready for a soothing soak, we tried our first hot pools at the Myvatn Nature Baths. Following the Icelandic pre-bath ritual, we emerged wet into the cold air (8 degrees C or 46 F) and made a beeline for the large milky hot, blue pool. It felt luxurious!

Relaxed, I was ready for one more hike before dinner - the Heverfjall crater, a tephra cone 452 meters high and 1'040 meters wide, which dominates the environs. Breathing hard, we made it to the top and halfway around, before heading back down.

Godafoss

Sunday Sept 25
In the year 1000, the law speaker, Porgeir, was forced to make a decision on Iceland's religion. After 24 hours of meditation, he declared the country Christian. On the way home from the National Assembly, he stopped at this waterfall near his farm and threw all his pagan cravings of the Norse gods into the torrent - hence the name, Godafoss. From whatever side or angle you experience the falls , they are so powerful and magnificent.

This afternoon we picked up Bill and Mary Love from the airport in Húsavik.

Grjótagjá

Saturday Sept 24
Today we sought refuge from the weather in a geothermal cave. "Game of Thrones" fans will recognize Grjótagjá as John Snow's love cave. Though too hot for bathing, we enjoyed its warmth, glad to be out of the wind and rain. We ran into some crowds here, but, with patience, we were able to get some good shots. Tom found a "hidden" entrance around the side, so, for a while, we had a portion of the cave to ourselves - simply magical.

The nearby area of Hverir was unworldly, full of mud pots, fumerols, and steam vents, all hissing and spewing clouds of sulfurous smoke. Our attempt to climb the overlooking slope, Mt. Námafjall, was twarted by wind and slippery slopes. Even I turned back!

Fishing

Friday Sept 23
We spent last night on Einar's farm, just off the Ring Road. The family church was our landmark. The sky was so clear and the stars so bright, that we had hoped to see the Aurora.

We woke to sheep grazing outside our window and a white farm cat sitting in it. It is a glorious day for fishing!

The Ring Road to Akureyri was stunning with the sun illuminating the snow dusted peaks on either side of the narrow valley.

We met our guide, Elle, at his house, got fitted with boots and waders, and took off in his truck with Yoyo, the dog. The river is cold, the air fresh, and the sky clear. Ah, but it's called fishing, not catching. We both made good casts, but the fish just were not biting. They must had had other things to do on this magnificent, outside day.

Hvitserkur

Thursday Sept 22

After that amazing sunset last night, a storm moved in with gale force winds leaving us a rainy day for travel. When we plugged our destination into the GPS, our travel time was much longer than we had anticipated. Thank goodness we opted for the waterfall yesterday. We weaved in and out of fjords and over mountains, dramatic with clouds and rain, toward the Ring Road, continuing to north Iceland.

Late afternoon we reached Hvitserkur. I was surprised when I saw it - not what I expected or imagined from the description. I found it captivating, sparking my imagination. Legend has it that Hvitserkur was a troll caught by the sunrise while trying to destroy the monastery. Some say it looks like a giant beast drinking from the water. What do you think?

Sea, Summit, and a Sunset

Wednesday Sept 21
The sky is blue and a beach day is in the making. Getting an early start, we drove down Patreksfjördur, past the old shipwreck, and over the mountain to Rauòasandur or red sand beach, unique since most Icelandic beaches are black sand.

As we descended the steep gravel road, the beach appeared, long and a beautiful orange gold in today's light. To our chagrin, we were separated from it by an estuary full of birds, flying up as we looked for passage. Not to be twarted, especially by a few cows, we finally found an access on the far left- across a pasture and over a small stream.

We are totally alone on this magnificent sand beach, sans rocks or seaweed. Ours are the only footprints, ours the only voices amidst the waves and soaring birds.

Noting the time (where did it go?), we leave reluctantly, deciding to tackle the road to Dynjandi, the most dramatic waterfall in the Westfjords. Once we leave the main road, gravel is standard. It is slow going over the summit that is Dynjandi's source, but the views are stunning down and along the fjords. Westfjords looks like a cockscomb on the northwest of Iceland, full of long, steep-walled fjords, with blue green water. Dynjandi lived up to it's reputation with thunderous power and spray like rain.

After today's wonders, we chased a gorgeous sunset all the way home to Patreksfjördur, the only town (pop 662) on it's namesake fjord.

Jules Verne

Tuesday Sept 20
" Decend into the crater of Snaefells...before the kalends of July, audacious traveler, and you will reach the center of the earth. I did it." So begins Jules Verne's "Journey to the Center of the Earth", my favorite Saturday morning movie as a kid. Verne immortalized Snaefellsjökull as a mystical vortex, so it is fitting that there is a monument to him here, complete with signpost to various locations - through the center of the earth. We had some fun playing here......

We explored Rauòfeldsgjá, a steep, narrow cleft, like a slot canyon, disappearing into the side of the mountain. Supposedly it is where Bárdur tossed his nephew, who had pushed Bárdur's daughter onto an iceberg, never to be seen again. It is possible to skinny up the cleft, holding on to the sides and pulling up; but, not too far in, it just got too steep for me. I loved the lush, protected coolness.

I say goodby the Snaefellsnes Peninsula with two favorite images, the Hellnar church and the crashing waves.

On to the Baldur Ferry at Stykkishólmur, which takes us across Breidafjördur to the Westfjords. It has been a rather gray, rainy day, but not bad for traveling and writing.