Monday Sept 26
With a little sun and a crisp, cold day, we headed to the Krafla volcanic area to hike Leirhnjúkur mountain. Hiking through lava fields, by steaming springs and mud pots, we used boardwalks to cross some of the most unstable ground, the sulfurous smoke billowing around us. We warmed our hands over steaming vents, marveled at the swirling patterns of lava, and were fascinated by the different colors of rock, with glistening smooth surfaces created by rapid heating and cooling. Some vents and formations were encrusted with minerals and felt like saunas. Bracing ourselves against the wind, we were treated at the top to a commanding view of the vast surrounding lava field created by the Krafla volcanic fires of 1975-1984.
The Myvatn fires of 1725-1729 created the Stóra Viti crater nearby. Climbing up to the edge of the crater, we were surprised by the bright blue green water at the bottom of the crater, reminiscent of Lake Louise. We walked the entire rim of the crater - broken at the back by another active area of mud pots and boiling pools.
Ready for a soothing soak, we tried our first hot pools at the Myvatn Nature Baths. Following the Icelandic pre-bath ritual, we emerged wet into the cold air (8 degrees C or 46 F) and made a beeline for the large milky hot, blue pool. It felt luxurious!
Relaxed, I was ready for one more hike before dinner - the Heverfjall crater, a tephra cone 452 meters high and 1'040 meters wide, which dominates the environs. Breathing hard, we made it to the top and halfway around, before heading back down.
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